Universal Geneve
$2,595.00
Available
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Buy in Person — Los AngelesAbout This Watch
In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines opened a new route from Copenhagen to Los Angeles across the Arctic. Flying near the magnetic pole created navigation problems ordinary compass systems were not built to handle, and SAS wanted a watch associated with the new service. Universal Genève gave the design to a 23-year-old Gérald Genta. The resulting Polarouter, soon renamed Polerouter, became the first major watch attached to a designer whose later work would include the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
The Polerouter became important for another reason. Universal developed the line around its micro-rotor automatic architecture, placing the winding mass down inside the movement instead of covering it with a full rotor. Design and engineering arrived in the same watch, and collectors today seek them out for their beauty and function. Interest in vintage Polerouters has risen sharply over the last decade, and when Universal Genève returned in 2026 after decades of dormancy, the Polerouter was chosen to lead the revival with an entirely new family built around a modern micro-rotor caliber.
The Polerouter Super took that elegant watch somewhere unexpected. Introduced in 1965, it added a large screw-down crown, heavier crystal and a pressure-resistant case construction originally rated to 300 meters. Beneath the back is a spring-like retaining ring derived from Swiss patent 238872, designed to keep the movement securely seated as pressure increased. Universal had turned one of its most refined automatic watches into a serious sports watch without making it look like one.
Most surviving Supers are encountered in steel. The 14K gold-filled execution is quite rare and as far as I can tell this is the only example currently available online. Period and later market records confirm that gold-filled Supers were produced, including examples with caliber 1-69 like this watch and the model's large signed screw-down crown, but they appear only occasionally.
The contrast suits the watch elegantly. From the front there is almost nothing overtly sporting about it. The dial is warm white with slim gold hands, applied gold markers and the small Universal emblem at twelve. The date sits at three beneath the distinctive trapezoidal magnifier. Long sculpted lugs, a narrow bezel and the restrained dial give it the proportions of a dress watch. Only the oversized stepped crown suggests that the case was built for something more demanding.
This example has survived especially well. The dial is very clean, with crisp printing and bright applied furniture. The hands and markers show gentle aging, and the acrylic crystal is clear, including the date magnifier. The 14K gold-filled case retains strong lug definition and clear edges, with only light scratches and wear from use. There is no obvious heavy loss of the gold surface, and the signed screw-down crown still operates as intended.
The back carries the personal engraving E.W.W. 5.9.75. Whatever that date marked has disappeared with the history of its owner, so I will leave it at what is actually there.
Inside is Universal Genève's caliber 1-69 Microtor, the mature form of the architecture that helped make the Polerouter important. The winding mass sits down inside the movement instead of spanning the bridges above it, leaving the broad Geneva-striped bridges, jewel settings and much of the mechanism visible. The movement is extensively signed and presents exceptionally cleanly. That matters with these calibers. Wear in the micro-rotor bearing can eventually allow the rotor to wobble and contact the movement or caseback, leaving the circular scoring frequently seen on tired examples. This movement shows none of that characteristic wear. The rotor is unusually clean, and the inside of the caseback is similarly free from the circular scars caused by rotor contact.
The watch runs, and its service history is unknown.
Terms: Please review all photos carefully as they are a part of the listing. This is a vintage timepiece. Accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance are not guaranteed. Vintage watches may require periodic service. Performance can vary with wear, temperature, and position.
All sales final.
Watch Details
| Brand | Universal Geneve |
| Movement | 1-69 Microtor |
| Case | Gold Filled |
| Dial | White |
| Strap / Bracelet | Strap |
| Era / Year | 1965-1970 |
| Condition | Used |
| Service | Unknown |
| Box / Papers | No |
| Origin | Switzerland |