Universal Geneve
$6,900.00
Available
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Buy in Person — Los AngelesAbout This Watch
Anyone who has spent years hunting vintage watches knows what time usually does to a silvered dial. At the marts and estate tables they turn up by the trayful, spotted dark, water-stained, burned at the edges, and a collector learns to look past a hundred ruined faces without slowing down. Silver almost never ages kindly. Once in a great while, it ages perfectly.
The Compax here left Geneva in 1943, in the middle of the war, from Universal Genève, the house that called itself the largest maker of chronographs in the world. The model, introduced in 1936, was the first wristwatch built with a counter for hours, made for timing the things that run long, a flight, a working day. It came first, and every chronograph Universal made afterward carried its name: the Aero-Compax, the Dato-Compax, the Tri-Compax.
Eighty years took this dial to a tropical parchment, evenly, edge to edge, the whole face gone together to the warm gold of old paper, a fine pale clouding drifted across it like frost. The black Arabic numerals are still sharp. The minute track runs inside a ring of blue that survived the change, and the three registers, seconds, minutes, and hours, are cut in fine concentric rings that catch the light. Blued steel hands cross all of it, the chronograph's long needle reaching the outer track. I have seen few dials to match it, at any age, at any price. A dial like this cannot be ordered or restored into being; it can only be found, and there will not be another.
Inside, wound by hand, runs the caliber 287, built in Universal's own works and governed by a column wheel. The bridges are gilt, signed, and still bright.
The case has kept pace with the dial. It is chromed over brass, worn through across the bezel and at the lugs and pushers, and the warm brass beneath pairs perfectly with the museum parchmant dial. . A domed acrylic crystal covers everything. It comes on an tan/olive suede strap, chosen because the dial needs nothing around it. The watch runs, and I was told it was serviced recently.
Terms: Please review all photos carefully as they are a part of the listing. This is a vintage timepiece. Accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance are not guaranteed. Vintage watches may require periodic service. Performance can vary with wear, temperature, and position.
All sales final.
Watch Details
| Brand | Universal Geneve |
| Reference | Universal Geneve Compax |
| Movement | Universal Geneve Cal 287 |
| Case | Chrome Plated over Brass |
| Dial | Tropical |
| Strap / Bracelet | Strap |
| Era / Year | 1943 |
| Condition | Used |
| Service | Unknown |
| Box / Papers | No |
| Origin | Switzerland |