Racine by Gallet - François Borgel Staybrite Case - Blued Hands - 1940s

In the late 1930s and early 1940s, the wristwatch had not yet settled into the softer round shape that would dominate after the war. Steel cases were still being cut like small pieces of architecture, with flat sides, hard corners, narrow bezels, and lugs shaped into the case itself. This Racine belongs to that short period, when a practical wristwatch could still carry the geometry of the Art Deco years.

The case is the part that sets this watch apart. It is not simply round, and it is not quite cushion-shaped either. The bezel is cut into flat facets, the sides drop into hard polished planes, and the hooded ends make the bracelet enter the case rather than hang from ordinary lugs. Small holes at the case sides show where the bracelet pins pass through. I have not handled another Racine with this exact shape.

Inside the back are the FB key mark, Brevet, Brit. Pat. 385509, and Staybrite, the marks associated with François Borgel and the Taubert family’s patented steel case system. Borgel cases were built with protection in mind, but here the construction is also what gives the watch its form: tight screw back, angular case body, hooded ends, and bracelet openings cut directly into the steel.

The dial is signed Racine, while the movement and inner caseback are signed Gallet & Co. Swiss. The dial is two-tone, with a lighter center and a warmer outer field aged toward ivory and champagne. A printed inner ring separates the two surfaces, the outer minute track gives the watch its precision, and the black Arabic numerals remain strong around the dial. The blued steel hands bring the color, with the long central seconds hand reaching into the outer scale.

Inside is a fifteen-jewel manual-wind movement signed Gallet & Co., marked Swiss and Unadjusted, with the JXR import mark visible. The plates show age, bright steelwork, ruby jewels, and the open layout of a prewar hand-wound movement. The watch runs, and its service history is unknown.

It comes on a finely engraved vintage Gemex Pat. Pend. bracelet with geometric panels across the links and clasp. I cannot say the bracelet is original to the watch, but visually it belongs with the case: bright steel, sharp pattern, and the same hard geometry carried outward from the lugs.

The case shows scratches, small marks, edge wear, and age throughout. The dial shows spotting and patina. The crystal has yellowing and some surface wear but displays the dial clearly. The bracelet shows scratches, tarnish, and age, all visible in the photographs.

Terms: Please review all photos carefully as they are a part of the listing. This is a vintage timepiece. Accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance are not guaranteed. Vintage watches may require periodic service. Performance can vary with wear, temperature, and position.

All sales final.