Bovet
$5,350.00
Available
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Buy in Person — Los AngelesAbout This Watch
The dial on this Bovet is one of the most visually arresting to survive intact on a vintage chronograph. It is charcoal grey, built in rings: a deeper black band circles the charcoal center, and another charcoal ring carries it to the edge. In the center, engine-turned into the dial itself, are three gold rings, concentric, each smaller than the last, a cousin of the snail guilloché cut as separate rings rather than one coil, and together they carry one tachymeter. The outer ring reads speeds for a mile finished inside the first minute; when the mile runs longer, the hand is read against the second ring in the second minute and the third ring in the third. A telemeter calibrated in miles runs at the rim. The recessed subdials are finished in concentric circular graining that catches the light on its own. The hour numerals are lume-filled and original, their luminous compound aged to a warm cream that matches the lume in the gold-toned hour and minute hands. Everything else on the dial is gilt, the scales, the telemeter, and the BOVET signature at center, all printed with the precision Fleurier demanded of its finest dials. The central chronograph hand is red from hub to tip. Multi-scale dials of this era are sought after in their own right, but finding one in this state of preservation, on a Bovet, with the original printing fully present, is something that does not happen regularly.
In 1948, Europe was piecing itself back together. The Marshall Plan had just passed, Berlin was under Soviet blockade, and the continent that had spent six years destroying itself was beginning the long work of reconstruction. Switzerland had emerged intact, its watchmakers never having stopped, and the Fleurier workshops were producing at full capacity for a world that was buying again. Among the finest of those workshops was Bovet Frères, building movements in that town since Édouard Bovet established it in 1822. Bovet spent the nineteenth century supplying the Chinese imperial court with watches of such quality that the Qing Dynasty’s most discerning collectors became their most devoted clients, and the word for watch in certain Chinese dialects took its name from Bovet directly. That history of finesse is what the Bovet name carried on the dial of this chronograph when it left Fleurier.
The Valjoux 77 inside this watch was produced from 1946 to approximately 1950, a window of barely four years. Unlike the Valjoux 22 and 72, produced across multiple decades in volumes that made them the backbone of an entire era, the 77 existed and disappeared within a single brief chapter. Seventeen jewels. A seven-column wheel governing the start, stop, and reset sequence. The bridge is signed BOVET FRERES & Co. S.A. / SWISS, making this watch triple-signed: dial, inner caseback, and movement bridge all carrying the Bovet name. That level of commitment to the signature reflects the confidence Fleurier placed in what they were sending into the world.
The inner caseback is stamped BOVET FRERES & Co. S.A. / STAINLESS STEEL BACK / SWISS / 250, and the outer caseback carries the case serial 999796. The dial is original and unrestored. The hour and minute hands show aged lume that has darkened over its life, shown honestly in the photographs. The case shows honest surface wear from use with its edges intact, and the crystal shows light marks. It is presented on a brown leather strap with wear of its own.
The chronograph has been partially serviced and operates correctly. Start, stop, and reset all function as they should. Service history is otherwise unknown.
Terms: Please review all photos carefully as they are a part of the listing. This is a vintage timepiece. Accuracy, power reserve, and water resistance are not guaranteed. Vintage watches may require periodic service. Performance can vary with wear, temperature, and position.
Because this watch has been partially serviced, I provide a one-year limited warranty on the movement. If the movement develops a functional issue under normal use within one year of purchase, I will repair it at no cost for labor. This warranty does not cover anything related to the case, dial, hands, crystal, pushers, crown, bracelet, strap, or cosmetic condition, and it excludes any issue caused by external factors, including but not limited to impact or dropping, case damage of any kind, shock, improper use, tampering or attempted repair by anyone other than me, water or moisture exposure, humidity, condensation, magnetism, corrosion, loss of parts, or any other accidental or intentional damage. Any shipping costs associated with warranty service are the buyer’s responsibility unless otherwise agreed in writing.
All sales final.
Watch Details
| Brand | Bovet |
| Movement | Valjoux 77 |
| Case | Steel |
| Dial | Black and Gray Gilt |
| Era / Year | 1948 |
| Condition | Used |
| Service | Fully Serviced |
| Box / Papers | No |
| Origin | Swiss |